作为知名时尚女性，20世纪杰出的时装大师之一，小黑裙的设计师，5号香水的缔造者，简约中透出奢华的香奈儿品牌的创始人，可可·香奈儿(1883—1971)，这位时尚领袖对世人来说始终好像一个谜，她的神秘身世，她的优雅、时尚与前卫，还有关于她的传说，至今仍为人们津津乐道。
You know her as the embodiment of French high fashion, but Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel has more hidden in her past than she would've admitted during her lifetime.
你知道她是法国时尚的化身，但加布里埃·"可可"·香奈儿的过去远比她承认的更为丰富。
Her style and design put her at the very tip of Parisian culture, getting her in contact with the top echelon of the European elite.
她的风格和设计使她处于巴黎文化的顶端，从而使得她有机会与欧洲精英阶层接触。
And yet, in spite of her associations with composers, movie stars, royalty, and politicians, there is one connection that is often snubbed by the history books.
然而，尽管她与作曲家、电影明星、皇室和政治家都有着联系，但有一种联系会常常被史书忽视。
In this video, we'll see how Coco Chanel built a fashion empire that she eventually tried to leverage in service of the Third Reich.
视频中，我们将看到可可·香奈儿是如何打造其时尚帝国，以及她最终是如何试图利用第三帝国的服务。
Coco Chanel was an innovative designer with many contributions to the world of fashion and beyond:
可可·香奈儿是一位创新的设计师，对时尚界及其他领域做出了许多贡献：从把晒黑作为一种美和贵族的象征而不是工人阶级的标志，到终结长达一个世纪的教条式紧身胸衣的流行。
Her beginnings, though, were quite humble.
不过，她的出身并不显赫。
She was born in France in 1883 in poverty and after the death of her mother at age 12, her father sent her to live in an orphanage for girls.
她于1883年出生在法国，12岁时母亲去世，后来她的父亲把她送往一个女童孤儿院中生活。
That's where she mastered sewing and after ageing out of the orphanage, she found work as a seamstress,
她在孤儿院里学会了缝纫，长大后她成为了一个裁缝，并会在工作之余唱歌从而获得一些额外的现金。
Now, Chanel was a smart woman and she was born with pretty good looks, so considering her circumstances it should come as no surprise that she found herself a wealthy patron very early on.
香奈儿是个聪明的女人，她的外表漂亮极了，她注意到了自己的优势，很早就发现自己会是一个富有的赞助人，这不足为奇。
Her charms captured the heart of a very rich man: Etienne Balsan,
她的魅力吸引了一个非常富有之人的心：艾蒂安·巴桑，
the heir to the largest textile company in France that among other things produced uniforms for the French army.
法国最大的纺织公司的继承人，该公司甚至承作法国军队的制服。
By 1906 when she was 23 years old, she had become his mistress and through him, she began mingling with the upper class.
到了1906年香奈儿23岁的时候，就成了他的情妇，从此香奈儿开始跻身上流社会。
Two years later, Coco began an affair with one of Etienne's friends, an English aristocrat and she would actually play them off of each other:
两年后，可可与艾蒂安的朋友、英国贵族开始了一段感情，实际上她还会挑拨他们相争：他们通过给她送礼物和满足她的每一个愿望来争夺她的爱。
One of those wishes was to indulge Coco in her dream of opening a fashion boutique in Paris, which she did in 1910 thanks to funding from her wealthy lovers.
其中一个愿望就是支持她在巴黎开家时装店的梦想，1910年，得益于她富有情人的资助，她成功的做到了。
Now, despite her patronage, Coco's success was a product of her own skill: her hats and dresses brought with them a unique and alluring style that attracted socialites from across Europe.
尽管有人赞助，但可可的成功是她自己能力的代表：她的帽子和连衣裙带来了一种独特而诱人的风格，吸引了来自欧洲各地的社会名流。
What truly kickstarted her global ascent, however, was Chanel's entry into the perfume business.
然而，真正推动香奈儿全球崛起的是其进入香水行业的尝试。
In 1921, Coco released her first fragrance, which you can probably recognize today: Chanel No.5.
1921年，可可发布了她的第一款香水，时至今日我们也可以认出它：香奈儿5号香水。
Sold in a simple glass bottle, the perfume's success helped to further spread Chanel's fame across the world.
香奈儿将其放在一个简单的玻璃瓶中售卖，香水的成功帮助香奈儿名扬世界。
But as her ambitions expanded, Coco ran into a problem:
但随着她野心的扩张，可可遇到了一个问题：在巴黎销售时装和香水是非常简单的，但在欧洲和北美地区却并非如此。
The capital required to build a global supply chain and distribution network was beyond even the means of Coco's aristocratic friends, which is why she had no other choice, but to turn to venture capital.
建立全球供应链和分销网络所需的资本甚至超出了可可贵族朋友的能力，她别无选择只能求助于风险投资。
Her connections did prove useful: she got in touch with Pierre Wertheimer, the owner of an international conglomerate that sold perfumes and cosmetics in America and Europe.
她的关系确实很有用：她和皮埃尔·维特海默取得了联系，在美国和欧洲销售香水和化妆品的国际集团的所有者。
He was exactly the man that Coco needed, and together they created Parfums Chanel, the company that would make Coco one of the richest women in the world within ten years, even though she only owned 10% of the company.
他正是可可所需要的人，他们一起创造了香奈儿的香水系列“Parfums Chanel”，那家公司在之后的十年使可可成为了世界上最富有的女人之一，尽管她只拥有公司10%的股份。
There was only one problem … Pierre was Jewish and Coco was one of the most fervent anti-semitists in Paris.
只有一个问题……皮埃尔是犹太人，而可可是巴黎最狂热的反犹派之一。
At first, Coco was willing to put her prejudice on the side, since she needed Pierre's help to establish a global business.
起初，因为她需要皮埃尔帮助她建立一个全球性的业务网络，可可愿意将偏见暂且搁置。
But once things got rolling, she increasingly started viewing him as a leech, who was unjustly benefitting from her ideas.
但事情一但发生变化，她就对他越来越忌惮，认为他从她的创意中收获了不公正的好处。
Her views on Jewish-owned businesses were becoming increasingly common during the 1930s, especially after Hitler's rise to power in Germany in 1933.
20世纪30年代，尤其是在1933年希特勒在德国崛起后，她对犹太人所有企业的看法日趋如是。
Coco's chance for revenge against Pierre would take another seven years to emerge: in the wake of the German blitzkrieg and the rapid defeat of France, Coco saw an opportunity.
可可报复皮埃尔的机会七年之后才出现：在德国的闪电战和法国的迅速失败之后，可可看到了机会。
On June 14th, German forces entered Paris, taking control of the city.
6月14日，德军进入巴黎，接管了这座城市。
Coco closed her stores, putting 4,000 women out of work in the process, and moved in at the Hotel Ritz, because in her opinion "now was not the time for fashion".
可可关闭了她的商店，造成4,000名妇女失业，她搬到了丽兹酒店，因为她认为“现在不是时尚业的好时候”。
Officially, she declared that "now was not the time for fashion,"but her move had different motives.
她正式宣布，“现在不是时尚的时候”，但她的举动却有着不同的动机。
The Hotel Ritz was the headquarters for many high-ranking German officials in occupied France.
丽兹饭店是许多德国高级官员在法国的活动总部.
It was here that Chanel would first meet Baron Hans Gunther Von Dincklage, personally appointed as a "special attache" by Joseph Goebbels.
香奈儿在这儿第一次见到巴伦·汉斯·冈瑟·冯·丁克勒奇男爵，他是约瑟夫·戈培尔亲自任命的“特别武官”。
In other words, he was a German spy.
换句话说，他是一名德国间谍。
Chanel quickly fell in love with Dincklage, and the two of them remained together for many years after the war.
香奈儿很快爱上了丁克勒奇，战后两人仍在一起了很多年。
His associations with the Abwehr, the German intelligence service, introduced Chanel to the Nazi war efforts.
他向德国情报部门介绍了香奈儿对纳粹战争所做的努力。
In 1941, she officially joined the German cause to aid in their wartime plan.
1941年，她正式加入德国事业，帮助他们的战时计划。
She became Agent F-7124, with the codename 'Westminster', based on her previous relationship with the Duke of Westminster.
根据她以前与威斯敏斯特公爵的关系，她成为了F-7124特工，代号为“威斯敏斯特”。
From 1941 on, Chanel was deployed to Madrid to connect with Allied personnel under the guise of business plans.
从1941年起，香奈儿被派往马德里，以商业计划为幌子，与盟军人员建立联系。
Of course, Coco wasn't helping the Nazis out of the kindness of her heart:
当然，可可并不是出于她的好意而帮助纳粹的：她希望能借助他们所施行的军国主义政策恢复她在香奈儿香水的全部所有权。
Unluckily for her, Pierre was smart: he had seen the writing on the wall and had given control of the company to a Christian friend of his before promptly fleeing to America.
不幸的是，皮埃尔很聪明：他注意到了不祥之兆，把公司的控制权交给了他的一个基督教朋友，然后迅速逃往美国。
For several years Coco would try reclaiming her business by collecting intelligence for the Nazis, but ultimately her efforts were in vain.
几年来，可可试图通过为纳粹收集情报来恢复她的业务，但最终她的努力都成了徒劳。
By 1944, it had become clear that the tide of war was turning in favour of the Allies.
很明显，战争的浪潮正在转而支持盟国。
In a last-ditch effort, Chanel was tasked by Heinrich Himmler himself to negotiate a surrender to the Allies when Stalin's resurgent Red Army seemed all but certain to make its way to Berlin.
在最后的努力中，在当斯大林复活的红军几乎肯定会前往柏林时，海内里希·希姆勒亲自命令香奈儿与盟军谈判投降。
Her mission was ultimately a failure, and by the time Paris had been liberated, Coco had fled to Switzerland with Baron Dincklage.
她的任务最终失败了，当巴黎解放的时候，可可和丁克勒奇男爵一起逃到了瑞士。
Now, after the French Liberation,10,000 Parisians were tried for treason.
在法国解放后，10,000名巴黎人因叛国罪受到审判。
Chanel was not one of them, having only been questioned and then released due to a lack of evidence.
香奈儿不是他们中的一员，参与了审问后因缺乏证据才被释放。
It is rumored that Winston Churchill personally intervened to keep her safe, since she knew so much about the British elite and high-ranking politicians.
有传言说，温斯顿·丘吉尔亲自出面干预以保护她的安全，因为她对英国精英和高级政治家了解甚多。
After the war, Chanel tried suing Pierre in a last effort to reclaim her company.
战争结束后，香奈儿仍在尝试起诉皮埃尔，最后一搏企图收回她的公司。
Ultimately, they came to an agreement, reducing her stake in the company to just 2% and merging the perfume business with the fashion business.
最终，他们达成了一项协议，将她在公司的股份减少到2%，并将香水业务与时尚业务合并。
Pierre would cover all of Coco's expenses for the rest of her life, and he assisted her comeback to the world of fashion a decade later in 1954.
皮埃尔在她的余生中覆盖可可的所有开支，他在1954年以后帮助她回到时尚界。
With her passing in 1971, the company became fully owned by the Wertheimers, and to this day it is owned by Pierre's grandsons.
1971年她去世后，这家公司完全归维特海默夫妇所有，直到今天，它仍归皮埃尔的孙子所有。
At the end of the day, it's understandable why they chose not to publicize Coco's past: it would've almost certainly destroyed her brand and harmed their profits, with little to gain if people knew of her work as a spy.
说到底，可以理解他们为什么不大肆宣传可可的过去：这样做几乎可以肯定会摧毁品牌，损害了他们的利润，如果人们知道她曾从事间谍工作，几乎将获利微小。
Learning about the world of espionage during World War 2 might not benefit the Wertheimers.
世人了解第二次世界大战期间的间谍活动对维特海默氏可没什么好处。
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