皖美好味道过年的日子里(皖美好味道过年的日子里)(1)

点音频,寻“年味”

小时候,盼着过年。过年了,有新衣服,有各种美食。

现在,同样喜欢过年。亲情与友情交织里,流淌在心中是幸福。各种习俗、变着花样的美食,成为过年的一种文化符号。

皖美好味道过年的日子里(皖美好味道过年的日子里)(2)

徽州卤拼 A Huizhou-style assorted cold dish

人们都说,吃在春节。因为过年了,有的是时间,有的是心情,各种特色美食在这时候层出不穷。

皖南是山区。各种农作物丰收后,人们就在农闲中等待过年。进入腊月就开始准备美食,家家户户忙着打豆腐、杀年猪,鞭炮声此起彼伏。山中盛产的竹笋、木耳、香菇、蕨菜与鱼肉进行着各种美味碰撞,烹调出千滋百味。农家土猪肉经过腌制,经过几十天的冬日暖晒,配以山笋,樟木板上蒸熟,晶亮诱人,清香四溢。蟹黄烧饼、徽墨酥,则成为招待亲朋好友的糕点。

皖美好味道过年的日子里(皖美好味道过年的日子里)(3)

皖美好味道过年的日子里(皖美好味道过年的日子里)(4)

制作歙县三阳一品锅(组图)Shexian-style Sanyang Yipinguo hotpot in the making

过年时期,喜事也多,一品锅成为绩溪、歙县等地大宴必上之菜,几十口锅摆在一起,呼啦呼啦声,形成喜庆的大合唱。热气腾腾中,映着妇女、姑娘们的脸,幸福感十足的画面。

安庆过年,少不了黄梅戏进村入乡,美食也在各家各户的饭桌上精彩亮相。胡玉美蚕豆酱烧出的鱼肉格外香。鸡汤泡炒米也是人们最有味道的记忆,炖煮的鸡汤,香醇而不油腻,铁锅炒制的熟米,焦香、酥脆。热鸡汤泡上熟米。啊,回味悠长!山粉圆子烧肉已成为特色菜,五花肉烧至焦黄,下山芋粉做的圆子,配上作料,各种滋味交融,爽滑鲜香。

皖美好味道过年的日子里(皖美好味道过年的日子里)(5)

山粉圆子烧肉 Braised pork with balls made of sweet potato powder

People all say that the Spring Festival is a time to enjoy the best food. At that time we can have various kinds of delicacies.

The southern part of Anhui is a mountainous area. After harvesting crops, farmers wait for the Spring Festival in the slack season. Local people start to prepare food after the last month of the lunar year comes and every family will be busily engaged in making tofu and butchering pig for the festival. After salting and airing in the warm sun, the pork is steamed with bamboo shoots on a camphor wood chopping board. Then the fat meat is bright and translucent like crystal and the fragrance is alluring.

皖美好味道过年的日子里(皖美好味道过年的日子里)(6)

桐城老鸡汤泡炒米 Country chicken soup with parched rice, Tongcheng style

Xiehuang Shaobing (a kind of stuffed and baked pancake in the size and color like a steamed crab) and Huimo Su (a kind of black colored, soft candy mainly made of black sesame in rectangle shape) are the best snacks to treat visiting relatives and friends during the festival.

People usually host happy events during the Spring Festival. Hu's Yipinguo, a kind of hotchpotch in a wok, is a must to be served at grand banquets. When several dozens of woks are arranged together, the cooking noise is like the resonance of a happy chorus.

皖美好味道过年的日子里(皖美好味道过年的日子里)(7)

金寨吊锅 Jinzhai Diaoguo (a wok of food hanging over a stove)

合肥的美食似乎被老母鸡汤、吴山贡鹅、泥鳅挂面所代表。老合肥人则喜欢咸鸭烧黄豆 ,用瓦罐慢慢煨,咸鸭的干香和黄豆独特的味道融合在一起,且品且回味。

过年期间,如果遇上雪花飞舞,去金寨吃吊锅,则是暖洋洋。各种菜肴在一起,炭火烹饪,边吃边聊,其乐融融。

吃羊肉去皖北。萧县属温带季风气候,兼有北方和南方的气候特点,漫山散养的白山羊,羊肉风味独特,也为厨房里的灵感提供充足食材。将羊肉装入鱼肚子后封口烹制,成就了鱼咬羊,也称鲜炖鲜,成为饭桌上压轴之菜。马鞍山的霍里羊糕,晶莹剔透,切成片,蘸上麻油、辣椒、酱油等做成的调料,口齿留香。吃鸡去淮北,地锅鸡是特色菜,鲜浓的汤汁包裹着鸡肉,锅周边贴着色泽诱人的薄饼,色香味俱全 !

皖美好味道过年的日子里(皖美好味道过年的日子里)(8)

萧县羊肉汤 Xiaoxian-style lamb soup

过年,许多美食与文化和习俗交织相融。芜湖的“八宝菜”是过年家家必备的一道菜肴,寓意安康、快乐;淮南家家户户都要挂上一串香肠,好像在说:看吧, 好日子又红又长。

Old country chicken soup, Wushan Gong'e goose, and noodles with loach can be rated as typical Hefei delicacies. Yet senior Hefei residents prefer salted duck cooked with soybeans, which are usually simmered together in a crock. When the aroma of duck and the unique taste of soybeans blend together, they can produce a lasting aftertaste.

If it snows, we may go to Jinzhai to enjoy the warm hanging pot. Various food materials are cooked over a charcoal stove, eating while chatting there could be a very enjoyable experience.

皖美好味道过年的日子里(皖美好味道过年的日子里)(9)

萧县鱼咬羊 Xiaoxian Yuyaoyang (stewed fish with mutton stuffed in its belly)

Want to eat mutton? Go to Wanbei (the north of Anhui). In Xiaoshan, you will see a great many free-range white goats in the mountain. The mutton produced there has a unique taste, which inspires chefs to invent more yummy dishes. For instance, Yuyaoyang (literally, fish biting mutton: the way to cook fish with mutton stuffed in its belly), also known as Xiandunxian (literally, tasty plus tasty) become the "grand finale" on the dining table. Ma'anshan's Huoli mutton cube is glittering and translucent. When it is cut into slices and dipped in sauce with condiments, it will leave a lasting flavor in your mouth.

Want to eat chicken? Go to Huaibei, Diguoji, or ground pot chicken, is a local special food. Chicken cubes in thick broth with attempting pancakes are really attractive and delicious!

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皖美好味道过年的日子里(皖美好味道过年的日子里)(10)

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文字:程群

图片:宋善忠 杨坤

音频:范梦琪

编辑:吴承江

校对:刘 军

皖美好味道过年的日子里(皖美好味道过年的日子里)(11)

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